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Monday, Oct. 30th.
I woke up at dawn. It was foggy but calm and I headed straight to the pier for a surf check. Here the light offshore already started to clear the fog. The view from the pier didn´t disappoint me. The swell was there, still a bit wobbly but with good size. Set waves started to break about 50 meters in front of the head of the pier but stayed round and soft until they reached the pier where they took up speed but also often closed out.
Catching these waves required a bit of luck and plenty of board volume. The inside was mostly close-outs or white-water walls with the odd wave passing the outer sandbar unhindered and hitting the inside sandbar just right. Then it provided a nice juicy wave suiting smaller boards too.
This got me pretty excited but first of all I needed a bar (mind you, the camping area just had a tap). From earlier visits I knew where to go in this otherwise post summer season deserted tourist area. I had a quick Cappuccino, a Brioche and my inevitable morning bathroom visit and then headed north to the other pier.
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