|
But again, he paid for this dedication and not only got worked but swept way inside and very close to the rocky shoreline. From here he had to deal with the violent white-water walls of the next set to get back out. He managed to pass three of them but the last one resulted in a torn leash and his board swept onto the rocks.
While he was fighting with the currents and the white-water walls to get back to shore his board was pushed into one of the tiny bays between the rocks. I put my camera aside and jumped into the knee-deep water to grab the board and carry it onto safe ground. Then I waited for him to reach dry land too, had a short chat and walked back to my van to get rid of my soaked shoes, socks and jeans.
I didn´t bother to slip into dry clothes then and chose the wetsuit instead to get out for a surf myself. The logging spot was where I paddled out. Long running waves up to chest-high and a small crowd of fellow longboarders seemed the best option for me having a joyful session. The stiff offshore made take-offs difficult here too but all in all it turned out to be the right decision to get out here.
continue >>>
|
