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One of these white dots were the mythic Sardinian heartlands around Nuoro. And that was where I headed in the afternoon. I reached the town late in the day, got a bit lost within it and instinctively followed signs promising view points out of town and up onto the Monte Ortobene. The view up here on the surrounding mountains and down on Nuoro was fantastic. I decided that this was a good place to spend the night and pulled into one of the parking lots along the windy road leading up to the summit. There I had a basic dinner with great view and went to bed early.

Wednesday, November 22nd

I got up at dawn and had my morning coffee while watching through the open door the rising sun light the mountain panorama. Living in a van has its advantages. Then I drove down to Nuoro, parked my van just outside the town centre and walked into the historic town centre.

Nuoro is the major gateway to the Barbagia, a vast folded rocky plateau with the Gennargentu massif – with altitudes up to 1.800 meters the highest elevations on the island – as the outstanding landmark. The area always was and still is very inaccessible and has a long history as refugium for unfaltering locals during the centuries of foreign occupation dating back to Etruscan times.

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