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The break in front of the little rock island once again proved to be a jewel. It transforms the tiniest swell into fun lefts and rights and with bigger swells creates powerful lefts and rights with a quality only comparable to the better reef breaks in the Atlantic. It is a challenging break though and with solid swells might create the odd easy fun ride but generally is very demanding with its slabby peak where you have to survive a hair-raising vertical drop at the take-off before you can relax a bit and work the following long walls.
Like so often, the left was a bit more consistent yet more demanding to ride. That said, the right had some thrilling moments too. Since the sun had made it over the inland mountains a steady stream of surfers had arrived at the various parking lots at the bay. But only a handful of them was tackling that reef in front of the island. The vast majority paddled out at the northern end of the bay, where the waves still were solid but less demanding. They were breaking much shorter and quite shifty there though and less consistent. I nevertheless walked over to have a look, but my attention soon was drawn back to the main peak in the middle of the bay again.
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