Saturday, December 9th
I woke up before dawn to a howling north-westerly wind. The forecasted storm had arrived, and the otherwise calm bay was stirred up by hefty wind gusts. Waves were breaking at unexpected places but got torn into bits by the strong side-shore winds. I had a quick breakfast and then headed further west. Due to the bend in the coastline and the offshore islands which block the westerly swells the sea was seemingly calm here.
But close to a beach named after a South Pacific atoll I spotted what I had been searching for: a perfect point break wave in an area with side-offshore wind. Apparently, the bigger sets of the west swell made it around the offshore islands and were bent into a south-westerly direction before they met the picture book like shaped reef in front of the headland. The South Pacific association of the name of the beach suddenly made sense.
continue >>>
|