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It was fun until my worn out back started interfering with flashes of pain too much and I had to get back to shore. I was hungry now and drove east to look for a Boulangerie. Following he coast road I realized that there was more swell further east as I left the swell shadow of the offshore islands.
The coast is mostly shallow rocks here, with a few interesting reef setups which all seemed quite dangerous to surf due to some rocky obstacles above and just underneath the sea surface. My “unsurfable” judgment changed though when I spotted some surfers out at sea. They were lining up very close to s shallow reef plate which occasionally went dry.
I decided to delay my search for croissants and stopped the van for a closer look. A right was breaking, starting as a low white-water wall and then growing into a sucky and occasionally long running wall. The left was breaking less often but when it broke it was a quite big wall that demanded a lot of speed.
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