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But when I reached the easternmost beach at the south-facing coast, I was relieved. The south swell made it into this bay and was bouncing of the harbour wall. The resulting lefts were looking very surf-able. The weather wasn´t exactly Cote D´Azur-ish, but the waves were some of the best I had seen in this area and so the dull and grey and chilly atmosphere didn´t matter at all. I parked the van, got into my thickest wetsuit, grabbed the longboard and paddled out.
At the beginning it was just me and two other guys in the lineup. This thin crowd helped to get a feeling for the wave, which had shifting outside peaks that broke surprisingly fast, then got a bit slower and at the inside sped up again. The rides were quite long and definitely fun. For the first time this coast showed me what it is capable to create once the swell has the right direction and the local wind cooperates.
Slowly more locals were appearing and went out, but it never got too crowded. I had a good session, with a few good rides and even got beaten around by the surprisingly punchy inside. I stayed until my body reminded me that it still haven´t had a decent breakfast and forced my back on dry land.
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