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I felt ready for a second session now and walked back to the van. I decided not to waste time to walk all the long way back to the point or even start my van and drive into town and search for a suitable parking lot and then paddle out into a very competitive lineup at an unknown point break wave. Instead, I paddled out at the beach break in front of me and had a few waves there.
I decided not to waste time to walk all the long way back to the point. Instead, I paddled out at the beach break in front of me and had a few waves there. That session in shifty beach break waves was ok, but a little bit overshadowed by what I had seen at the point. When I had enough there was about an hour left before sunset. I wasn´t ready to hit the road for the long drive to the Atlantic yet and decided to walk over to the point again.
When I arrived there, the sun was standing low already, and the wind had further dropped. The swell had a little bit more size now and the first thing I witnessed was one of these waves, that made the connection to the inside. The guy I watched surfing this beauty needed strong legs for that 150-something ride.
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