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A solid five-wave set was coming in, far bigger than anything I had seen before and caught most of the lineup out of position. To my surprise the sandbars easily handled this extra juice and produced the same perfect rights, just bigger and running a bit longer. As most surfers had been sitting way too far inside, these liquid beauties rolled along mostly empty. I watched the whole set break, tried to mind-map where to position with my longboard without risking getting caught inside, and hurried to my van get into my wetsuit.
As the waves broke right besides the main coast road, it was no wonder that there were quite a few surfers out. I generally do not paddle to the main break in crowded lineups and wanted to take it easy anyhow to get a feeling for the break, so I paddled to the inside peak, that only got connected with the main peak during the biggest sets and otherwise formed a separate break. The waves here were a bit affected by backwash but often created a shorter but fun right.
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