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I was barely out when the sun came out and gave a little bit of extra warmth, which helped withstand the cold mountain air brought down to sea by the north-westerly wind. I wasn´t alone at this peak and needed some patience but had a fun session until I got too cold. The swell size had diminished now, and proper sets had become increasingly rare at my peak. It was still fun waves though, especially further up at the jetties, but I was done now.
I was really cold now, shivering and with numb fingers which made oping the van a painful mission. First thing to do was making a coffee to get a bit warmer before starting the task to get out of the wetsuit. Halfway alive and mobile again I went down to the beach for a last look and then drove back to the house, with the heating cranked to the max and a big grin in my face. What had looked like just another big disappointment in the morning had turned into a huge success, surf-wise. For once, this surf-starved coast had surprised me in a very positive way!
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Check this gallery from more impressions from that surprise swell.
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