Tuesday, December 29th I got up early again. According to the forecast a 1.5m leftover swell with the same direction as yesterday should be still running in the morning. I drove to yesterday afternoon´s spot and it was flat. So, I headed to the catwalk. It was almost flat. Last chance was the easternmost corner of the bay and there I went. And indeed, there were some surfable waves breaking there.
This part of the bay is the most exposed to south-westerly swells. The coast here is a mix of rocky parts, sandy beaches and some slabs and the shape of the bay has a funnelling effect on the waves. So, despite the leftover swell already being small and weak, there were still breaking some decent sized waves. The ones breaking in front of a for the winter season abandoned beach bar looked the most promising and a small crew of locals had just paddled out. I went down to check if this break would suit my needs too.
continue >>>
|