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That was very painful and kept handicapping me during the whole session. But the waves were mushy and small enough, and at the same time peeling long enough to allow me some cruisy rides which could be surfed even one-legged. The moon was already hanging above the horizon, and I really enjoyed being out at Sea despite my new handicap. With sunset I got back to the beach, climbed the step into my van with some difficulties, opened a beer and enjoyed the beautiful sunset, hoping my leg would heal quickly enough over night to be ready for the juicer waves expected tomorrow.
Wednesday morning, I got up at dawn, opened the door of the van and checked the swell while having my morning coffee. The Queen was still sleeping but things looked interesting a couple of jetties further north.
Now, as we all know, the grass isn´t always as green as it looks from this side of the fence, but this time it turned out to be a good idea to go checking. On offer were a very nice looking right breaking off the tip of the jetty right in front of my viewpoint and a shifty but slightly bigger peak in between those jetties. A bit further down the jetty alphabet another right was breaking, apparently a bit smaller but with a nice little tube.
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