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A bit nervously I climbed the dunes to check the surf. I expected it to be small, around hip-high with the odd chest-high set, but what I saw from up there shocked me. It was flat, and with flat I mean it was like a lake on a windless day. I stayed patient and blamed the high period and assured me that certainly a set would arrive. And indeed, after a while a set arrived and broke as a knee-high wave. I tried not to panic and decided to head to the bunkers hoping that the reef up there would milk something surfable out of this.
And indeed, there was at least something breaking out there. The wind wasn´t ideal with a bit too much south in its direction, but I wasted no time to paddle out to ensure that I could surf at least some waves. A handful of other desperate was out and together we engaged in a never-ending paddle against the surprisingly strong current to hold position. To make things even trickier, a short period southerly pulse was overlapping with the long period northwest pulse, which meant that waves had the tendency of breaking here and there while we tried to paddle just far enough south to drift back into position right in time for the few breaking waves.
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