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I was close to calling it a failed mission, when suddenly a bulb appeared in the middle of the bay and something close to a wave broke. This brought back some hope, especially as the forecasts were predicting slightly – 0.2 meters – higher swell with – more important – a few seconds smaller period from noon on.
So, I stayed patient and focused on soaking in the mood of the place in the beautiful morning light. I watched local fishermen land their tiny boats and wandered around quite a bit to stay warm. At the parking at the Cold Hawaii centre, I met a few familiar faces, most of them as disturbed as me by the stark contrast between swell forecast and reality on the sea.
Around noon the sea started to bulge more frequently in the middle of the bay, and I thought “now or never” and paddled out. At the beginning it was just me and another guy on a longboard out there in the void. Later another longboarder and a foil surfer joined us. For about an hour, decent sets were rolling in on an almost regular frequency and created some long albeit weak lefts and shorter rights. It was good enough for some cruisy rides on the longboard. Then it went flat again.
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