|
I increasingly felt ghosted by this swell. It repeatedly had teased me now, calling me to paddle out and then abruptly disappearing. It´s not that the waves had diminished slowly, they had abruptly and completely disappeared. Very strange behaviour. I started to become cold from the long wait and went back to shore. It stayed flat but as there were a few hours of daylight left, I decided – against reason - not yet to drive back home but have another look at the north shore. According to the forecast the swell should still improve and I didn´t want to miss the chance for a second session.
When I reached the parking, the sea was empty, but some waves were rolling in. Very clean and just high enough to be surfed with a longboard. Two guys were preparing to paddle out and it looked, like the swell had just arrived. I took some time to check if these lines weren´t just a hoax again, but it seemed consistent and even improving. Maybe the forecasts were right for once now.
continue >>>
|
