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The shorebreak to the right was sucky too but offered way better chances to actually make the tube. But the main peak above the reef obviously was the best choice.
But meanwhile plenty of other surfers had arrived and most of them had the same idea as me: surf that A-frame peak above the reef. So, this lineup had become crowded to a point where it made not too much sense for me to join the pack now. Knowing the tide would be ok for at least another two hours I decided to wait a bit until fatigue would thin out the lineup.
To kill time, I went down the beach again and watched the shorebreak vs surfer / booger / SUPer battle. The shorebreak always won but it was fun to watch. And at least some waves looked make-able. Almost make-able.
That swell about a week ago already had changed my view on this island (to a much better impression, to be honest), but today was even more stunning. Sure, the light offshore helped and the warmth prevented by the sun shining all day helped too. But what this groundswell and the reefs and sandbars around here created was something special. But for now, I had seen enough beauty and carnage and it was time to paddle out myself.
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