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Back at the parking I met my buddy Vince who just had arrived together with a friend. They were considering going out here, but the swell was mediocre and there were quite a few people out now. They had to make a decision as it would get dark soon. They finally opted to surf that more exposed former semi-secret break and I decided to follow them to take some photos. The increased swell had improved the waves over there but there was still a bit too much wind on them. The crowd in the lineup also had grown.
As I said, that point can handle some wind but now – despite a good-sized swell – was far from its best. Sure, the drop and the first section provide some thrill, but than it mostly flattened out or closed out. What on good days is a ride of easily one hundred meters (and sometimes more) now was a drop plus a turn and with luck a second one.
The second section further down the line did not work properly let alone connect with the first section. The guys out nevertheless had a few good waves (as long as they did not drop into each other) and most of them clearly knew how to surf this fickle break.
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