|
You know that you are in good company when you suddenly realize that it´s close to midnight and you had planned to go to bed early to take advantage of the leftover swell early the next morning. I nevertheless put the alarm at six.
Saturday morning, I woke up at half past seven and therefor way too late. I still felt tired and made myself a coffee when I had a look on my smartphone. Vince had sent me a message earlier telling me that it was “pumping and clean here. Super nice sunrise. Uncrowded”. I only could answer “Fuck, slept too long”. He kept rubbing salt into my wounds: “Amazing session from 6.30. first hour glass and big. Now a lot smaller and wind turned back to cross-on”.
I headed over but there was no more such glory. Still some swell but too many people out for the few good waves. Should have had less beers last night and gone to bed earlier. I returned to the van frustrated but then spotted that a few nice lines were still coming in. I wasted no more time and paddled out. No one else was out and so I could pick my wave out of the odd incoming bigger set and ride a few nice ones. It was inconsistent but being alone helped making it a worthwhile session for at least an hour. Then it went flat.
continue >>>
|
