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Despite being the only surf-able right in the area I never have surfed this wave because there were always too many people out for my taste. Now it was the only option, at least until the afternoon, when the wind and the swell were due to turn to a better suited direction. I was considering going out when another heavy rains squall approached. It suddenly got almost dark and a mix of fat raindrops and hail was pouring down on the harbour and the lineup.
10 minutes later this Armageddon was over and it cleared up. Some of the waves breaking now offered the odd workable shoulder and longer ride. But to read the incoming wobble good enough to distinguish these gems and at the same time be in position to catch them was the privilege of a handful off skilled locals. The rest of the – still growing – pack caught almost nothing worth the effort. I decided to save my energy for the – hopefully – better afternoon.
So, I changed to the other side of the peninsula again and first checked the formerly secret point. Waves had started to appear here too but still were relatively small and windblown. I walked back and the time needed for this was enough for the swell with a now better direction to grow enough to awake my preferred left.
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check this gallery for more pics from the right
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