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The main break been very populated despite it being a Monday – a clear sign that you are visiting a developed surfing area – and I expected to meet more than a handful of other surfers at “my” break, but I was “disappointed”. Only one surfer was out in the windblown but still well lined up waves which mostly broke hip to chest high.
The other guy was clearly older than me – something that rarely happens nowadays – and was riding one wave after another on his longboard, taking full advantage of having the playground for himself. I soon joined him but had a difficult session this time. The swell was still rising and some head high sets were breaking more frequently while the wind was a stiff side-shore.
Still being a windsurfing aficionado, I mostly only surf when there is no wind or when it´s offshore. When there is wind, I go windsurfing, but this habit means that I have almost no experience surfing in windy conditions. A five-wave pounding while being stuck at the shallow section at the stony shore reminded me that I finally have to get some ear plugs as the many duck dives through the crashing waves caused quite a bit of pain in my right ear.
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