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After a not so long while I called it a day and returned to shore. My companion soon followed and we had a little chat and he complained about getting too old as he had to finish his session after two hours despite the waves still being very good. I had seen him ride about 20 waves, most of them really nice ones and secretly wished to have his “insufficient” fitness.
As there was about an hour and a half until sunset, I returned to the main break to watch and take some more photos. The swell had risen and some of the sets provided a solid clean up to a well populated line-up. To catch medium-sized sets – which usually are the best ones – you have to sit pretty close to the point and ignore the peaks standing up at the outer reef as they won´t break out there.
But now sets started to actually break out there, thus even creating a right where there should be lefts. But these were better left un-surfed and the gruelling, up to five-waves duck-dive marathon caused by these bigger sets payed out with the next normal-sized set.
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