|
Tuesday morning, I got up at seven and drove to the beach. It was pure glass and the swell had a double digit’s period which led to really fun waves. It also led to really a lot of people coming to the beach early and the lineups were full pretty soon. I was back at the house at 10:30 and we had breakfast together. In the early afternoon we walked to the beach together. I had left my van at the parking lot in the morning and this proved to be a good idea as the whole parking plus about 300 meters of the street were packed with cars.
The beach and the lineups were packed too. Summer in France and surfing has become REALLY popular here too. I gave the girls a little surfing lesson before I paddled out for a few quick rides. Then the sun and heat became too much and we returned to the house to hang out in the garden. In the early evening went to the beach again and had a beautiful evening session in glassy chest-high waves. Again on the longboard and again on the second best peak a bit further down which had much less people in the lineup and still offered some nice rides.
Wednesday morning, I was a bit sore from the three sessions of the day before but again got up at seven and went to the beach. It was overcast and chilly and the wind was a light side-offshore. Waves had about a meter but weren´t very well running. I had another longboard session anyhow before I returned to the house and breakfast with the family. During the day we did not much besides shopping for the evening dinner with one of my oldest friends and his family who live nearby.
continue >>>
click here for more photos
|
