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Thursday morning, I got up at seven and drove to the beach. The swell was 0.5 meters @ 10 seconds. There was no wind at all. I had a very pleasant longboard session in hip to tommy high glassy waves at a peak that I shared with two other guys. This lasted for about an hour before the swell lost size. I didnīt pity this too much as my shoulder was aching and my back was sore. So I drove back to the house for breakfast and returned to the beach with girls to give them another surf lesson.
The waves were perfect for learning, about half a meter and very clean. This allowed them to try their first green water take-offs. When they were done I couldnīt resist and paddled out in board shorts for a quick session. In the early evening we went for another visit. The beach was still pretty populated and the line-ups even more. No wind, hip-high waves and warm sunshine kept people in the water. It also made me go for a third session despite my worn down body and I didnīt regret it.
Friday morning, I got up at seven. But I didnīt go to the beach. The swell forecast predicted not even a foot. So instead I joined my wife on the morning bike ride to the “Boulangerie” at nearby Plouharnel. A bit after noon I went to the beach with the girls hoping the non-existent swell would still be enough for beginners.
It turned out to be waves maxing at 50 centimetres and again windless but sunny. Perfect for the girls who ended up surfing two and a half hours.
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