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At noon the first local finally dared to paddle out. Needless to say that he was welcomed by another heave rain squall and soon got a solid set on the head. Positioning was extremely difficult as the peaks shifted quite a bit.
Like so often it needed one guy to paddle out to make others to follow. The lineup filled up soon. It stayed difficult though as peaks kept shifting, sometimes creating hefty barrels, more often offering a nice open shoulder after a critical drop, sometimes peaking and then vanishing. The left was the more consistent wave, often providing fairly long ripable walls. The right stayed tricky, keeping throwing the odd closeout into the game.
I had kept an eye on the shorebreak further east too as it kept throwing out crazy waves. This way I realized that there were some other guys out further down. From far it looked like they were just playing in hefty closeouts. But as the main peak in front of the jetty stayed a bit too tricky to provide some really epic rides I thought I might as well have a look to the other peak.
The long lens that I had mounted on my camera had already caught the attention of some locals. When I brought back my umbrella to the van – it had stopped to rain – a local surfer approached me and asked me if I was going to leave. He added that it would clear up soon and the sun would come out and I would find perfect conditions for photographing within not more than an hour. I reassured him that I was just going to have a look at the other break and would be back soon.
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