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On the way back the offshore wind suddenly started to increase and became pretty strong. When I reached the main break I was greeted by a significantly different wave compared to what was on offer an hour ago. The swell was still the same but the strong offshore blew it into some Pipeline imitation.
The right was mimicking “Backdoor” with a super fast and long running tube. The left was less hollow but still with the odd cylinder. Even local surfers were stunned and streamed into the lineup with plenty of excitement.
But the wave now demanded real surfing skills. The stiff offshore made the take-off even more difficult, blowing up the face and slowing you down. The wave sucked hard and demanded precise positioning and refined take-off technique. Bigger sets were cleaning the lineup.
Despite the stunning beauty of the waves and the consistent flow of sets rolling in, very few waves were properly ridden. Wipeouts were plenty and the wave demanded the odd broken board. But the lucky or skilled ones who managed the take-off and positioning and timed their first turns right had some hilarious rides.
Funny thing was that is was the goofy footers again who scored the best rides despite having a much more difficult task riding the fast right on their backside.
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