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Again, the waves were far from being exciting but there was a very relaxing aura in the lineup. No hassling, no fighting against crashing waves, just a bit of steady paddling against the soft current, a short intense paddle to catch a wave and relaxed rides with slow movements on the board. I couldnīt resist and paddled, better say: walked out to the lineup that by this time was more or less orphaned.
Soon a wave came by and I caught it and had a nice ride on a peeling hip-high left. I managed to paddle back out without getting a circulation breakdown. Had another ride. Paddled back out. Paddled a bit too deep and hit the submerged wooden groins during the next ride. Paddled back out. Had a few more rides all by myself before I finished with a rejuvenated feeling. At least at the moment the bug was gone. Looked like I had chosen the right therapy to fight the illness.
Soon after I finished the waves started to vanish. This was not fair to the surfers who had to finish work before being able to drive to the beach. I watched them take the last remnants of the “swell” before I drove back home. Sometimes itīs the little things that do the healing.
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