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I had seen waves – sort of – break here before. To be precise: due to some weird refraction waves bend and run along the about 400 meters long wall peaking all the time just beside it before finally breaking on the stony shore. The peaks seemed steep enough to ride them but I had never seen anyone actually surf them.
This time a small crew on very large longboards were out and managed to get some wall rides. They took off at the outside bend and rode the peaks very close to the wall all along to the inside. Strange to watch in this strange surrounding and on these freakish breaking or just not breaking waves but obviously quite a bit of fun (check this gallery for some more impressions).
Back at “Trestles” the lineup was still very busy. I made myself a coffee in the van while having a perfect view on the action. The crowd did not thin out and there was just one and a half hours of daylight left so I decided to join them. The waves were still pretty nice and halfway consistent and it was worth to paddle out for a third session despite the long drive back home that would soon follow.
At half past one in the morning we were back home with aching muscles and heavy eyelids but with a big grin. It was worth all the effort and in a few weeks the days will be short and hoods, booties and gloves will be a necessity. You have to take advantage of what the transition times between summer and autumn have on offer.
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