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I was also greeted by a pretty decent set hitting the point und unfolding pretty nicely in a long peeling left. I caught some quick shots of the scenery with my phone and hurried to paddle out the few meters to the lineup. Out there the waves showed their real size, which here usually is quite a bit more impressive than the view from shore might indicate.
Being out there alone I could work on finding the exact take off spot without any hassling. Positioning yourself precisely is key out here as the space between catching the wave, wiping out into shallow waters or missing the wave is very small.
To be honest, the fact that the wave breaks that close to the stony shore still scares me a bit. But after a while I found my position, a set came in, I paddled hard, was a bit too deep, took off anyhow and wiped out at the bottom turn. This wave is fast and demands precise positioning AND quick movements.
I paddled back to the lineup and waited for the next set. Meanwhile it had stopped to rain and the sun had made it over the horizon. The light was fantastic and warm and the wind dropped almost completely.
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