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Over there I did my usual quick from the car check at the dead end of the road. It looked like a couple of guys were out so I parked the van and went to the cliff edge for a closer check. The swell was very solid with set waves way overhead but there was also this stiff north wind blowing straight into the lineup.
The Sea was pretty stirred up and the guys out in the lineup had a hell of a job to do paddling against the current and duck-diving solid set waves. It was more off a survival paddle and duck-dive training.
Two guys seemed to feel quite comfortable out there nevertheless and found their position in the lineup with obvious ease and tackled the set waves.
One of them pushed it too far though and ate it during a heavy drop that resulted in a broken leash and lost board. The guy sprint swam after it but did not reach it until it came to a halt in the sheltered part of the bay.
The other guy had accompanied his buddie to make sure that he made it in safely and then paddled back out to the outer peak. He obviously had super-human paddle powers and caught a couple of set waves which he shredded relentlessly on rides of about 200 meters’ length.
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