|
The spot I had been staying all morning was perfectly suited for the very southerly wind direction, but – as suspected and as experienced recently – the local sandbars were not suited for this swell. So, I moved on to another place which generally copes much better with that sort of groundswells. The wind was just ok over here, with south-southeast meaning a stiff side-offshore here. But the accompanying southerly wind-swell messed up the north-westerly groundswell and prevented it to create the nice long walls that I am used to get here.
I moved on to the bay further north. The reef here was wind-infected too, but the bay had protection from the southerly wind-swell and benefitted from the wind direction. Here only waves from the groundswell were breaking. But lulls were very long in between sets, sometimes up to 20 minutes. The weather had gone ugly again too, with some heavy squalls regularly rushing over the place.
I decided to stay patient and wait for the swell to reach a higher frequency. Just to make sure I didn´t miss anything I drove to the North Shore. Here it was offshore too but the waves were very small. One lonely longboard guy was out but during the about 15 minutes I watched not a single decent set made it to this part of the coast.
continue >>>
|
