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So, I returned to the bay, now with growing impatience as there was not that much daylight left. To my great joy the swell had picked up size and set waves were coming in more regular. The difference between 1 ft @ 19 seconds and 2 ft @ 17 seconds – as was running now according to the forecast – mas remarkable. Without any more hesitation I put on the full rubber outfit (wetsuit, booties, gloves, all of this in the thickest version I have) and paddled out.
There were still long lulls – which helped paddling out with dry hair – and for positioning you had to choose between sitting far outside and waiting very long but get rewarded with the odd solid set and a long left or stay at the inside with the growing crowd and battle for the smaller but still quite nice rights breaking here.
It was longboards only here as always as despite some really good-sized sets, the wave in the bay breaks very mellow and without much punch. This didnīt meant that you couldnīt get a decent beating when stuck in the wrong position which says quite a bit about the power of this swell. I had a good session but due to the long waiting and the cold air didnīt manage to stay out until dusk.
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