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Wednesday morning, I almost slept too long and got up just in time for climbing the dunes during first daylight. Up there I was greeted with a very solid wave exploding on the sandbar in front of me. Due to the clear sky and the light offshore it was still bitterly cold. But hey, that offshore bruised a very solid low frequency groundswell into perfect form!
A few guys were already out over at the reef and thus helped to scale the waves. Set waves were big for North Sea standards. Very big. Waves in between sets were still fun-sized. But the trusty reef wasn´t working as perfectly as expected. Either the waves stood up in a perfectly shaped peak but then only ran for a very short distance or a second peak materialized just a few meters south and interfered with the main peak. Obviously, the high period of the swell made it feel an otherwise ignored shallow.
The three surfers out had a hard time even finding the correct position within the shifting peaks. Taking off was an issue too, which only the guy on the voluminous single fin actually managed. But even he only very rarely lucked into a wave with a longer shoulder. The oh so reliable reef now showed that it had limits.
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