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Santa Cristina – Losa

Sardinia is laced with some 7,000 nuraghe. Nuraghe – or “Nuraghi” in Italian -  are ancient megalithic edifices developed between 1900 and 700 BCE. These buildings usually have the shape of truncated conical towers and are built of many layers of perfectly fitting stones. They have one entrance that leads into a corridor and to a main chamber. The bigger ones often have staircases that lead to additional chambers and to the top of the tower. Some of these Nuraghi reach heights of up to 20 meters.

Near Paulilatino some of the most impressive nuraghe of the island are situated in close proximity to each other and right beside the motorway which makes them an easy accessible and very worthwhile stop.

Santa Cristina is a larger archaeological site combining a few nuraghes with a holy well including the remnants of the corresponding temples and a 12th century church and pilgrim barracks. All this is spread into a beautiful hilly landscape with ancient trees and mystique pastures.

We recommend visiting the site in historical correct order, starting with the nuraghe at the south-west. It is not the biggest one of the island but in pretty good condition and lies within a small grove strewn with ancient moss-covered rocks. Especially at dawn and dusk this area offers a mystique aura breathing ancient history.

After this walk to the holy well at the east part of the site. This area has only a few single trees and is more open. Inside the foundations of a former temple a stair leads down to a small chamber with the stone framed well. The whole stone work of the chamber and the staircase consists of very fine carved stone blocks with regular narrow seams. It stands in stark contrast to the rough blocks the nuraghe are made off.

From here walk back to the entrance and have a look at the 12th century church and the buildings used for visiting pilgrims. Finish the visit with a coffee and a snack at the bar in the visitor centre at the entrance.

Nuraghe Losa is just a few minutes’ drive north from Santa Cristina along the motorway. The Losa site is cleared from any high growing vegetation which allows a good impression of the whole complex which consists of a stone wall surrounding an area the size of a football field which is mostly empty aside from the nuraghe itself. The nuraghe is special, one of the larger ones and in very good condition. The complex of three round stone buildings with the one in the middle the most complete is very impressive from the outside.

The bigger building can be entered through a door opening from where you get into a beautifully shaped inner chamber. Inside a building a spiraling staircase leads up to another smaller chamber and in the end to the remnants of the third floor on top of the building. Amazing stuff that people have built 3,000 years ago.

For more impressions check the galleries about Santa Cristina and Losa.

Related stories: Me(d)thadon, EP05 Post Genoa

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