[home] [trip matrix] [Stories] [trips] [films] [local heroes] [links]

[Fall p22] [Fall p24]


I had spent the night in town and planned to get up before dawn. I missed that for a few minutes and therefor was in a bit of a hurry to check the ocean. There was a light offshore and I was a bit anxious, that it would turn onshore soon, so I almost ran through the empty town. At first sight the waves didnīt look that extraordinary. But then a set rolled in and it looked different. It seemed to look different for the few lads in the lineup too, because everybody got caught off guard. They had been playing around in fun sized waves breaking a bit further inside. But what should have been the remnants of the “Super Sunday” swell was picking up size again.

Crowds were getting denser and the take off area became an intensely competitive place. One smart guy choose to hang around at the inside and got rewarded for his patience. One skilled guy was constantly scoring the best waves at the main peak. It was a surfing lineup. Bodyboarders had to step back.

It was mostly rights, demanding a quick take-off, offering a fast tube and one final roundhouse to burn speed, sometimes a section called for a floater. Experts only.

The wind stayed a light offshore, the sun was shining and the swell didnīt back up. The waves kept rolling in perfectly until the tide got too high at noon. There were still the odd bombs coming in, but the odds of making them were increasingly diminishing. For me it was time to change to the other coast for more suitable waves.

continue >>>