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Due to the rough topography of these mountains, the area is very thinly populated and getting around on the narrow curvy roads is a mission by itself, often accompanied by nausea after an hour of rollercoaster style driving. This doesn´t make things easier when you come to surf. The few beaches – for example Almaciga -between the steep cliffs are fully exposed to northerly swells which hit the coast with a lot of power. And – at least in 2004 – there wasn´t even any bars or cafes in the area that could help you regain energy after a strenuous surf session that inevitably will be followed by a long and strenuous drive back home.
The northwest coast is probably the most spectacular one. Bordered by the Anaga mountains with amazing the Dos Hermanos cliffs to the north, the Teide range just inland at the centre and the Teno mountains to the south, there is little space left between the ocean and mountains. The easier accessible areas here are mostly covered by Puerto de la Cruz and adjacent towns. There are almost no beaches, just a lot of lava reefs and cliffs and Atlantic winter storms pound the area with full furore. Due to the dense population in this coastal area and the few surf spots – if you leave aside the numerous death defying slabs – this is mostly locals only territory. At some places you even get in trouble when you take pictures of the sea….
Population at the coastal strip thins out a bit south of Garachico. This town used to be a major harbour at the beginning of the Spanish settlement until the Teide in its back proved to be a real volcano and sent some liquid lava through some parts of the town and right into the harbour basin. Very worth a visit and pleasantly laid back, especially in contrast to Puerto de la Cruz.
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